Basics: Clove at First Sight: How to Pair Wine with Garlic

Basics How to Pair

It might ward off vampires, but it attracted millions of to tiny Gilroy, California, over the 30 years that the town celebrated its annual Garlic Festival (until its COVID-related cancellation in 2020). Besides being known for wine (Gilroy sits at the southern tip of the Santa Clara Valley AVA), Gilroy is the undisputed garlic capital of the U.S., growing 50%—and processing 90%—of the nation’s garlic harvest. It’s worth a visit year-round for the many garlic-infused products for sale (ice cream, jelly, popcorn) and the subtle but pervasive scent of garlic that led Will Rogers to say, “Gilroy is the only town I know where you can marinate a steak by hanging it on the clothesline.” When pairing with garlic-heavy dishes, take into account which of its flavors are taking center stage.

When cut, raw garlic releases sulfurous compounds that create its characteristically complex pungency. A high-acid white wine can cut the bite of garlic in much the same way that citrus does in a salad dressing. Dry Furmint (the primary grape in sweet Tokaji Aszú wines) brims with sharp citrus, boasts a saline streak and hints at garlic’s best pal, ginger. Grab it when you can find it.

Garlic doesn’t contain capsaicin, the source of tongue-searing heat in chili peppers, but if you chew a clove of raw garlic, your mouth will hardly know the difference. However, while capsaicin is difficult to pair with red wine, garlic welcomes wines with complementary spicy flavors. With its charcuterie and pepper notes, cool-climate Syrah—northern Rhône, Adelaide Hills, Central Coast California—is a natural choice.

As it cooks, garlic— especially whole cloves—releases a deep sweetness, which is why roasted and braised dishes can absorb quantities of garlic that would overwhelm uncooked dressing or dips. Oloroso Sherry is usually a dry wine, but its rich texture and intensely nutty, oxidized flavors give it a mouth-filling roundness that plays well with dishes that straddle sweet and savory.

This fifth flavor is deeply savory (think dry-aged meat, blue cheese, mushrooms), and roasted and black garlic, in particular, are full of it. Garlic’s umami quality is why it adds such depth to so many dishes around the world. Tannins can clash with umami, so try a crisp and low-tannin red like those from Austria’s Zweigelt grape. It makes easy-drinking wines full of red fruit and a whiff of garlic-friendly black pepper.

Generously salt and pepper 8 bone-in skin-on chicken thighs and place, skin side down, in a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat until deep golden brown. Remove to a plate. Add ½ cup dry white wine, scrape up brown bits until liquid almost evaporates, then add chicken, 40 garlic cloves, and ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Cover and place in a 400°F oven for an hour. Roughly mash garlic cloves into pan juices when serving. Serves 4.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

Published: July 17, 2023

Trefethen 2020 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Oak Knoll District)

Portlandia 2021 Pinot Gris (Washington-Oregon)

Ramey 2020 Woolsey Road Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Liberty Lake 2020 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Carmenere (Red Mountain)

Rombauer 2021 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands)

Baron M 2022 Baron M Jardin d'Amour Rosé (Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence)

Albino Armani 2021 1607 Grave Pinot Grigio Pinot Grigio (Friuli)

Monzio Compagnoni 2012 Brut Nature Reserva Pinot Noir (Franciacorta)

Monzio Compagnoni NV alla Moda Brut Sparkling (Franciacorta)

Yealands 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough)

Château de Berne 2022 Inspiration Rosé (Côtes de Provence)

Serca 2017 Single Vineyard Gran Corte Red (Uco Valley)

Balverne 2021 Forever Wild Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley)

Red Bear 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley)

Tenuta di Lilliano 2019 Anagallis Red (Toscana)

Trentadue 2020 La Storia Estate Bottled Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley)

Viña Elena 2020 Los Cucos de la Alberquilla Cabernet Sauvignon (Jumilla)

Clunia 2017 Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León)

Oleandri 2020 Benedetto Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

Oleandri 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford)

Familia Chávarri 2013 Paul De Albas Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Pedroncelli 2020 Mother Clone Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley)

McGrail 2019 Patriot Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley)

Fattoria Uccelliera 2019 Poggio Alla Pietra Red (Toscana)

Carodorum 2020 Issos Crianza Tinta de Toro (Toro)

Viñas Leizaola 2019 El Sacramento Tempranillo (Rioja)

Bodegas Vilano 2019 Reserva Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Bodegas Milvus 2019 Fuenconcejo Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Inurrieta 2018 Altos de Inurrieta Reserva Red (Navarra)

Gómez de Segura 2018 Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja)

Casa Primicia 2016 Carravalseca Reserva Tempranillo (Rioja)

Bodegas y Viñedos Neo 2018 Neo Tempranillo Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Balbas 2020 Balbás 18 Tempranillo Cranza Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Balbas 2021 Pagos de Balbás Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Bodegas Lozano 2019 Montes De Leza Edición Limitada Tempranillo (Rioja)

Teófilo Reyes 2018 Enólogo Pionero Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero)

Ramos Torres Winery 2020 Love Ranch Vineyard; Panza Syrah (Madera)

Finca Bacara 2019 HI Monastrell (Jumilla)

Ego Bodegas 2019 Infinito Monastrell (Jumilla)

Sign Up For Wine Enthusiast Emails For Discounts And More!

Welcome to Wineenthusiast.com! By using our website and/or subscribing to our newsletter, you agree to our use of cookies and the terms of our Privacy Policy